Moisturize first, always. Then imagine drawing a halo on your face that goes from forehead to chin. Take your perimeter shade and apply it starting from your hairline to about a half-inch out. In this case, Martin is using a liquid foundation shade (Dior Backstage), which he blends in with a brush.
Next, apply a light layer of your secondary shade everywhere else with a brush. Use a sponge to gently buff in and blend where the two shades meet so that there isn’t a line of demarcation. It shouldn’t look like you’re using two different face tone shades. Martin is using Flesh Beauty’s Thickstick Foundation, which he also uses here as a light concealer.
To make sure that your skin doesn’t look flat, Martin recommends using a color-corrective powder with a hint of warmth or peach to it. He uses a fluffy brush, flicking off the excess (this is important — you want a very light coating), and then gently brushes it over the T-zone — under the eyes, on the nose, the nose’s edges, the chin, and the forehead. This lightly sets the foundation and reduces shine. Here, he uses Make Up For Ever Ulta HD Microfinishing Pressed Powder in Peach.
On darker skin tones, uneven skin tone doesn’t show up as red. It’s often a purple or mauve-ish color, so a green or beige concealer won’t work. Instead, use an orange concealer to knock out any darkness from spots or discolored areas. Martin is using Laura Mercier Flawless Fusion Ultra Longwear Concealer in 3W and 4N.
We’ve said it before, but don’t overlook coral. For darker skin tones, Martin likes using a bright peachy-pink color to brighten the face. To figure out where to apply the blush, smile. Apply and blend out at the apple of the cheek, moving to just a bit below the temple. You don’t want to start too close to the nose, because no one wants a red (or coral) nose.
To round out the natural look, add a bit of mascara and a raspberry-toned tinted lip balm. Raspberry looks especially pretty on darker skin tones.
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